We’re planning to have family over for Christmas dinner this year, so we’ve been trying out some recipe ideas. The failed roast duck from last week was one idea. Tonight we tried, with much more success, the Mock Porchetta from the Zuni Cafe Cookbook. Iris liked it, especially the pan sauce. Several times, Iris has convinced me to put broth into a glass so she can drink it. Tonight she was willing to eat it with a spoon. Also, when the roast was coming out of the oven:

> **Laurie:** Iris, do you think the roast will be hot and crusty?

> **Iris:** Yes. Hot and snuggly.

All parts of our Christmas dinner are subject to a rigorous interview process in addition to the tryout:

**Q:** What is mock porchetta, exactly?

**A:** It’s boneless pork shoulder stuffed with an herb mixture featuring rosemary, sage, fennel, garlic, capers, and crushed peppercorns, then surrounded by winter vegetables and roasted for hours until tender.

**Q:** Sounds good. But why is it “mock”?

**A:** Because the seasonings are modeled on the Italian dish *porchetta,* which involves a whole pig.

**Q:** You wimp. Why aren’t you making the whole pig?

**A:** My family is Jewish, and whole pigs aren’t kosher.

**Q:** What else are you going to serve for Christmas dinner?

**A:** We’re thinking of starting with small servings of baked pasta and finishing with a pear-cranberry tart from the November 2005 Fine Cooking. To drink, there will undoubtedly be the new cranberry Ephemere beer from Unibroue.

**Q:** Is this supposed to be Matthew interviewing the roast or someone interviewing
Matthew or what?

**A:** Interviewing a roast, now that’s just silly.

**Q:** While we’re on the subject of mock foods, what’s mock turtle soup, anyway?

**A:** I have no idea.